The Wave
Cross wind blows sea state rise
Brings a glisten to my eyes
Higher and higher rush like a hoard
I reach back and grab my board
I start to run diving head first
Preparing myself for the worst
I paddle out awed with wonder
Over one wave and the next, under
There it is towering high
As if it can touch the sky
I turn back for the shore
Kicking my feet just a little more
I jump up and ride the wave
Water surrounds like a cave
As I emerge from the pipe
I say to myself dude… this one’s ripe
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