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Question: Framing/Drt Mount question!?
I recently purchased a numbered print on paper!. I normally get canvas, but this time I bought paper!. The shipper managed to bend the box in shipping!. While the print does not have an actual crease in it, it will not lay flat!. The frame shop was concerned about it sitting in the frame correctly!. The shipper’s insurance is going to reimburse me for the print!. But I hate to just destroy a signed, numbered, limited edition print!.
So it gives me a question: What do I do with it!?!
What about dry mounting the print!? I realize that it will devalue the print, but the alternative is to destroy it!. I was thinking about having it dry mounted and framed, then giving it away!. It is a religious topic and so I was thinking about giving it to a local church that a friend of mine pastors!. It would look very nice in the entry foyer!.
If I do have it dry mounted, what should I watch out for to be sure that it is done correctly!? Should I be sure that any particular type of mounting or mounting system is used!? What should it be mounted to!?
I actually had one place suggest spray adhesive on foam core!. That just did not sound right to me!
So, I am looking for advice on this one!. Any suggestions!?Www@QuestionHome@Com
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker:
I've been framing professionally for 14 years - my recommendation would be drymounting!. This is a process that uses something similar to wax paper between the paper & substrate, is placed in a press and heated!. Both the mounting paper and substrate (generally 100% cotton conservation or museum board) must be acid-free!. This process, when done professionally, is reversible and will not affect the value of the print!. Be sure to ask that it is NOT laminated in the process - some companies do both!.
If the surface of the print is cracked, it can't be repaired - it wouldn't be feasible to pay out for drymounting!. But if it's only bent, drymounting could eliminate the warp!.
Your instincts are good - I would never ever recommend spray adhesive on foamcore for a limited edition print!. Many spray adhesives are not acid- or solvent-free and can discolour the artwork!. also, air pockets occur over time as the adhesive dries out!. This process would destroy the value of the print!.
I would also be very wary of applying moisture if you don't know the nature of the paper!. Try the flattening with the blanket as described above, but if that doesn't work, go for drymounting!.Www@QuestionHome@Com
I had a friend who was a master framer at a gallery where I worked!. And I had a similar problem w/ a silk screen that had been rolled in a tube and curled!. She told me to just lay it flat and fold a blanket on top of it, let it rest like that for a while!. It should gently smooth out the crease but put a protective film between the print and the blanket!.Www@QuestionHome@Com
If it does not have an actual crease, putting it behind an acid free mat with an acid free backing should hold it flat!. Or if it's just glass and backing!. I've framed a lot and usually that will keep everything flat, especially if there is not an actual crease!.
If you are set on dry mounting, just make sure they know what they are doing!. I worked at Hobby Lobby and I did not let any of my colleges dry mount anything if I could help it!. They managed to screw stuff up and I had no idea /how/ they did it!.
Ask for everything acid free, acid free foam board and glue and if you are matting it, acid free mat!. And just make sure the dry mounter knows what they are doing!.Www@QuestionHome@Com
First of all, when it comes to limited edition numbered prints, the value of the print is based on its run number!. By that I mean the print number or ratio that is on the print (i!.e!. - 60/150)!. The closer the top number is to '1' the higher the value of the print because as the prints are run off the press, the plate that the print is on loses detail with each pass through the press!. Therefore, when buying a print, if you have the choice between 22/100 and 70/100 you choose 22!.
As for mounting, dry mounting is one possibility but both the surface it is mounted to and the adhesive used have to be acid free or archival quality so as not to cause the deterioration of the paper that the print is on!.
You also have the option of framing the print under glass!. When dealing with a framing gallery, always take the print to a few different places first so that you can get some price quotes!. Framing is a costly venture, so make sure you get the best job for the best price!. also, a gallery should have several examples of its work on display so that you can see what they offer!.
When framing a piece under glass, again, the mat and the backing board have to be acid free or archival quality!. Depending on the size of the piece you could do it yourself!. In order to mat the priint you will need a special artist's tape designed for matting!. It looks like masking tape but is acid free and low tack!. A low tack tape is important because if the print is ever unmatted it won't be torn or damaged!. In order to mat a print all you need are three small pieces of tape: one for each of the top corners and one for the bottom centre!. The matted piece is then put into the frame and a separate backing or support board, (acid free), is placed on top of the print!. Then the back board of the frame is added on top of that, (if there is one), and the frame is closed!.
About the curling of the paper, if the piece is going to be matted and framed it should not present a problem!. However, it could make dry mounting tricky!. If the print has been done on 100% rag paper, (meaning all natural materials), then you could take a spray bottle and very lightly mist the back of the print!. As the fibres dry they will tighten up and it should help to flatten out the paper!. I have done this before and have never had a problem!. It's a little trick I learned in university!.
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